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Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life

Erschienen am 06.08.2015
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Bibliografische Daten
ISBN/EAN: 9781472151391
Sprache: Englisch
Umfang: 447 S.
Format (T/L/B): 3.4 x 23.2 x 15.3 cm
Einband: Paperback

Beschreibung

William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Pulitzer Prize Winner 2016

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